I’m challenging my memory to capture every detail, the vibrant cities, the taste of warm arepas and tropical fruits, the innovation, art, and culture that filled the streets, and the beaches in Santa Marta that made the trip unforgettable.
I’m calling this episode of the blog "A Personal Travel Reflection"
Colombia has been on my wishlist since I traveled to Cuba in 2018. Back then, someone randomly invited me to join them in Bogotá to keep the adventure going. But aside from feeling accountable to my partner at the time, I couldn’t shake the image I had built in my head, a place clouded by stereotypes of danger and drug cartels. Cuba already felt like pushing the limits, but Colombia intrigued me. I imagined it boosting my street cred, and I’d heard about the vibrant colors of Cartagena and legendary parties that were second to none.
I started digging deeper, doing my research, and added Colombia to my wishlist. The trip finally came to life, thanks to some classmates from my French course who were from Colombia. We planned the trip together. I ran my entire itinerary by them, and at one point, even they told me to be cautious. They were a little worried, but I just laughed and said, "I'm from Lagos". I’ll be fine!
I carefully planned my itinerary, starting the journey in Bogotá before heading to Santa Marta, then on to Cartagena, Medellín, and finally returning to Bogotá to wrap up the trip. All within 10 days, it worked out.
For me, Bogotá was all about experiencing the nightlife like never before, premium reggaeton parties and a visit to Monserrate, which was at the very top of my list. For someone that had Monserrate on top of their list, i did little research about the duration of the hike. You will find out soon.
Bogotá
I arrived in Bogotá early in the morning, around 5:00 AM, and made it to the penthouse I had booked by 6:00 AM. Normally, check-in didn’t start until noon, but as usual, I relied on my charm to score an early check-in. When I got there, the security guard only spoke Spanish, and the only phrase I could muster was "por favor." After a mix of gesturing and some awkward translations, I managed to get in touch with my host – an absolute sweetheart – who graciously let me check in early.
Oh, and before I forget, when I first saw the building, I almost thought I had the wrong place. From the outside, it didn’t seem like it could house something as stunning as the penthouse I had booked. It felt like one of those hidden speakeasies that lead to the most beautiful bars inside. I stumbled across it by chance while scrolling through Airbnb and instantly knew that’s where I wanted to stay. I’m almost embarrassed to admit how affordable it was for three nights, an absolute steal.
I would stay there again in a heartbeat. The 360-degree panoramic views of the city and the light pouring into the space filled the apartment with an incredible sense of positivity. It was the kind of space I imagine for myself as a digital nomad, somewhere I could be inspired and productive. I woke up happy and energized every day. My kitchen overlooked Monserrate, and while I envisioned myself cooking elaborate meals with that view, my reality was simpler, I sliced a few tropical fruits and let myself get lost in the stunning sight of Monserrate each morning.
Once I finally got into my apartment, the first thing I did was take a quick shower and get dressed for my trip to Monserrate. My itinerary was tight, and I had no time to waste, if anything went off plan, there was no chance to make up for it later. For some reason, I had imagined the hike to Monserrate would take no more than 15 or 30 minutes, so I dressed comfortably in flat shoes, Instead of a proper hiking outfit, thinking I wouldn't need to return home. I was wrong!
The reality hit hard once I got there, the hike was at least 1.5 hours long, with a steep incline over roughly 2.5 kilometres. It ended up taking me 2 hours. I was completely unprepared for this! Normally, I would have included stairmaster workouts as part of my daily gym routine, but I hadn’t planned for anything like this. As I trudged up, it was clear everyone around me was thinking I didn’t belong, and honestly, I couldn’t help but laugh at myself as I took this leap of fate.
At one point, I even considered pretending to faint, hoping someone would come to my rescue. The climb was becoming so intense. On top of that, I couldn't drink as much water so I don't end up needing the bathroom before reaching the top. But somehow, my silent prayers carried me through.
I would later make the same mistake in Èze, South of France. But I’ll admit, I don’t usually look into the details of hikes because I don’t want to be discouraged from going. Still, I know better than to take the same approach with something like Machu Picchu or the W Trek. Some hikes, you just don’t risk underestimating.
When I arrived, it was just as beautiful as I had imagined. It was noon, and there weren’t many tourists around, so I had a moment to myself to bask in the breathtaking views before the place got crowded. Every step of the hike was worth it. Once I took in the scenery, I snapped a few pictures and began my descent, which, surprisingly, wasn’t as bad as I had anticipated.
After the hike, I had planned to try Ajiaco, a traditional Bogotá dish. I had already researched a place but didn’t feel like walking there, so I opted for an Uber. Luckily, my driver spoke a little English, so I asked him if the place I had in mind was really the best for Ajiaco. He responded, laughing, "If they were really the best, they wouldn't need all that marketing to tell you so."
We both laughed, and he mentioned he was planning to grab lunch after my trip. I asked him to take me to wherever he planned to eat, as long as they served Ajiaco. That’s how we ended up having the best Ajiaco I’ve ever tasted. Later, I fact-checked the other places I had planned to visit with him, and he agreed they were all top-tier spots. His only advice was that I was mindful of the environment and stay safe.
After lunch, I decided to immerse myself in Colombia's culture, so I headed to the Museo del Oro to learn more about their rich history. From there, I strolled through Veracruz and Las Aguas, visited Plaza de Bolívar, and joined a graffiti tour. Eventually, I found myself in La Candelaria, which was the same area where I planned to experience some salsa at El Goce Pagano.
The salsa scene there was incredible, probably the best I’ve had since Cuba. The people were warm and inviting, and I was asked to dance multiple times. After getting past the initial awkward phase of figuring out the rhythm, I was fully immersed in the music. It was such a phenomenal experience.
When I was done, I headed straight back to my "penthouse"—and yes, I must apologize for calling it an apartment earlier, as "penthouse" truly captures its beauty. I changed for the evening and went to Andrés DC for dinner, a place I had discovered on Reddit. It did not disappoint. The vibe was electric, and after finishing my meal, I danced a bit more before heading to Theatron, allegedly the largest gay club in Latin America. I knew I was in for a treat, gay people just know how to party.
The club had 13 themed rooms with separate dance floors. You should have seen me hopping from reggaeton to pop to RnB to classic hits, it was like a kid in a candy store! I tried to stay levelheaded, always leaving the club at least an hour before closing to avoid potential issues. However, it was nearly impossible to get an Uber, and I had been strictly warned not to take taxis for safety reasons, so I waited another 30 minutes.
Finally, when the night ended, I got back to my apartment around 4:00 AM. What surprised me most was the kindness of my Uber driver. Despite the language barrier, he made sure the security opened the door before driving off. This caring sentiment was obvious everywhere in Bogotá, something I hadn’t expected but truly appreciated.
It had been a busy day, so I took a shower and went to bed, but only for about two hours, as I wanted to see the sunrise. I woke up as planned, watched the sunrise, then went back to bed, keeping an eye on the time since I had another packed day ahead.
On Day 2, I started my morning at the fruit market, which was the most vibrant, clean, and colorful market I’ve ever seen. It inspired and motivated me to cook! In fact, when I return to Bogotá, I’m planning to stay at least a week so I can enjoy all that fresh produce. I had Pandebono, a traditional Colombian cheese bread, for breakfast, along with something that tasted like oat milk. While I ate, a locals offered me a seat, knowing I was a tourist. I spent some more time wandering around the market, picking up tropical fruits, which I later enjoyed in my "penthouse" overlooking Monserrate.
After a quick nap to recharge, I prepared for the evening’s festivities. It was time for a proper party night at Andrés DC, and it turned out to be one of the best nights of my entire trip.
But before heading to Santa Marta, I had to try a local plantain dish—it doesn’t get more Colombian than that. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture. Afterward, I made my way to the airport for my nearly two hour flight to Santa Marta.
Santa Marta
Santa Marta is the oldest Spanish founded city in Colombia, I found it attractive given it pristine beaches and laidback atmosphere. Initially, my interest in Santa Marta stemmed from wanting to trek to the Lost City (Ciudad Perdida). But as I delved deeper into my research, I discovered the the Tayrona Park with untouched beaches. Naturally, when I hear “beach,” diving is the next thing that comes to mind, so I booked a two-day diving trip to experience the waters firsthand.
I arrived in Santa Marta late at night, and my Airbnb host kindly offered to pick me up from the airport for a small fee, something I never mind paying. I’ve mentioned this before in my blog, but whenever I visit a country with high poverty rates, I prefer staying in Airbnbs to support the local community directly. Many hotels in the Caribbean (northern coastal region of Colombia in this case) are American-owned, and while they do provide jobs, I feel more fulfilled knowing my money directly benefits the locals. Cutting out the middleman, even in small ways, feels impactful.
My Airbnb was conveniently located right next to the beach. I’d take morning walks along the shore, not necessarily to swim, but just to enjoy the serenity. One thing about diving is that it spoils you for regular beach days. I’ve been fortunate enough to dive at some of the best sites, so I rarely settle for anything less than perfect visibility and vibrant waters.
The dive site was in Tayrona National Park. I’m tempted to say it’s the most beautiful sea I’ve ever encountered, but I say that after almost every dive. What sets Tayrona apart, though, is the breathtaking backdrop lush tropical rainforests and the towering Sierra Nevada mountains. The crystal-clear waters and vibrant coral reefs made the experience unforgettable.
I’ve finally decided to take my diving more seriously by capturing underwater photos. I’ve delayed this for a while, holding out for the right camera, something I could only justify buying if I remained consistent with diving. I think I’ve proven that to myself now.
My dive group was lively, and we spent hours swapping stories and recommending dive spots across the world. The crew was fantastic, and I was pleasantly surprised at how affordable the dive was, it's by far the cheapest I’ve paid. Granted, the gear wasn’t the best, but I didn’t mind. I’ve accepted that unless I’m diving with Chris, I won’t always have access to top-tier equipment. On these islands, we make do.
Each dive lasted around 4-5 hours. Afterward, I’d grab lunch and relax, planning for the evening. Santa Marta had a slower, more relaxed pace, filled with European tourists. I found myself speaking more English here than I did in Bogotá, which was a refreshing break. My evenings were spent wandering the Centro Histórico de Santa Marta, getting lost in its beautiful tiny alleys.
For dinner, I became a regular at Ouzo. It’s the perfect spot for people-watching.
I also stumbled upon Bahía Concha Beach and Playa Cristal by accident, and I’m so glad I did. At Playa Cristal, I ended up going canoeing, a spontaneous decision that became one of the highlights of my trip. Luckily, I found a local tour guide who offered to row with me, and we glided through the calm, turquoise waters.
After the canoeing adventure, I was treated to an unforgettable meal, freshly caught fish served with rice and a glass of pineapple juice. Good lord, that was some incredible food. There’s something about eating by the beach, with the sound of the waves and the salty breeze, that makes everything taste better.
Santa Marta wasn’t about chasing adventure every second, it was about soaking in the atmosphere, diving into crystal waters, and letting the city’s relaxed rhythm guide my days.
Now it's time for Cartagena. I headed out feeling relaxed and fulfilled.
Cartagena
Cartagena, aka, the Jewel of the Caribbean and Colombia's Walled City, earned a top spot on my travel list for one simple reason, the vibrant, flower-draped balconies and colourful colonial houses. I imagined myself thriving in those hues. But beyond aesthetics, I was drawn by the allure of history and extremely eager to explore the legendary Walled City (Ciudad Amurallada) and Castillo San Felipe de Barajas. I had read about how Castillo San Felipe was constructed to defend Cartagena from pirate invasions, as the city was a key storage point for gold and treasures from South America bound for Europe. This made it a prime target for pirates and rival European powers. Cartagena's story is one of resilience, a heroic city standing as a living museum, preserving stories as far back as 1657. For a traveller like me, it was irresistible.
I had only one night in Cartagena, my itinerary was tight. I made Castillo San Felipe de Barajas my first stop. Touring the site was nothing short of captivating. I explored the fortress's imposing architecture, wandered through dark underground tunnels (and yes, I may have gotten a little lost), marveled at the cannons and artillery still standing, and followed hidden escape routes that once shielded soldiers from enemy fire. The viewpoints from the top embodied panoramic views of Cartagena, the Caribbean Sea, and the city below. I stayed until sunset, watching Cartagena glow under the fading light. It was an unforgettable experience.
After the fortress, I made a spontaneous detour to Getsemaní. It was scheduled for the next day, but I couldn't resist getting a sneak peek. I headed straight to Café del Mar, a rooftop bar with breathtaking panorama of the city. There, I enjoyed dinner and drinks while the warm Caribbean breeze swept over me. But the night was still young. I found myself at Donde Fidel Salsa Bar, dancing to champeta and salsa. From there, I made my way to Baruco, where the vibe was a little more refined. I danced with older women who outclassed me on the dance floor, their joy was infectious. Someone kindly filmed a few clips for me, and let's just say I remain undefeated (at least in my own mind). Rewatching those videos now has me in tears of laughter. I’m grateful to relive the experience through them.
By the end of the night, I returned to my Airbnb and collapsed into bed, but I had to rise early to explore Getsemaní properly before my flight to Medellín. At 7:00 am, I set out, walking through Getsemaní before the streets filled with tourists. I admired the vibrant murals, the charm of Plaza de la Trinidad, and the Afro-Caribbean women dressed in bright traditional attire. The air was filled with the sounds of local musicians warming up for the day.
One vendor, eager to sell me a hat, took a few photos for me and guided me through the narrow alleys. After our impromptu photo session, I felt compelled to pay for the hat even though I didn't need it. When I handed him the money, I told him to keep the hat, but he refused. He smiled, saying the time we shared was enough. Before I left, he even bought me a Coke. Moments like these remind me why I travel, the human connections, however brief, leave lasting impressions.
Now, it's time for Medellín – one of the most anticipated parts of my journey.
If you’ve ever heard of Pablo Escobar, the infamous drug lord who led the Medellín Cartel, then you know exactly what I’m talking about. My assignment/ mission here was simple. It was a visit to Commune 13, a neighborhood once known for its violent history, but now a beacon of transformation. I was eager to experience the iconic Metro Cable and see firsthand how the area had evolved from a troubled zone into a vibrant hub of art, culture, and innovation. The streets were alive with incredible murals and street art, each piece telling the story of the neighborhood's struggles, resilience, and hopes for the future. I visited La Casa de la Cultura and marveled at the viewpoints offering stunning vistas of the city.
In the 1980s and 1990s, Commune 13 was one of the most dangerous neighborhoods in Colombia, dominated by armed groups and the Medellín Cartel. The violence and poverty made it almost impossible for outsiders to even consider visiting. But the 2000s marked a turning point, with government and community-driven efforts leading the charge to restore safety and rebuild trust.
Today, the endless escalators, the street art, and the murals stand as symbols of the neighborhood’s rebirth. The transformation of Commune 13 into a thriving, innovative urban area is nothing short of inspiring. It’s hard to imagine that just a few decades ago, visiting this neighborhood could have meant getting caught in the crossfire.
I arrived in Medellín at night and decided to try Alambique in El Poblado for dinner, a place I highly recommend. It’s a fantastic fusion of fine dining and technology that perfectly encapsulates the spirit of the city. After such a unique meal, I was exhausted after days of nonstop travel, but I wasn’t ready to waste the night, especially not in a city as dynamic as Medellín. So, I headed to LaFabulousa in El Poblado for some premium reggaeton. The crowd was a bit intense, but it was still a fun experience, though, I must admit, I’m more of a fan of Bogotá’s vibe.
The next day, I ventured to Commune 13. It was a sobering experience, learning about the neighborhood’s difficult past, but I was truly captivated by the cable car ride, something I’d never experienced before. The ride itself could have been a tourist attraction on its own. As I navigated the Metro, I got a bit lost (as usual), but a kind woman helped me find my way, even giving me her number in case I ran into any more issues. We communicated in Spanish and with a lot of gestures, but it was a truly warm and generous gesture.
That evening, I headed to Bogotá for my final taste of Colombia’s nightlife before returning home.
What an unforgettable trip it was, filled with rich history, vibrant culture, and countless unexpected moments. I was especially proud of how I meticulously planned every detail of the trip, just like I did with my trip to Japan. It felt like a major milestone for me. My classmates were thrilled to see the photos, and it brought us closer together. We even joked in class about how I was "more Colombian" than most of them, given the number of cities I visited. I’m incredibly grateful for the opportunity to experience these remarkable pleasures of life, it's moments like these that truly enriches me as a human.
