Two Perspectives, One Journey: Exploring the South of France Through My Lens

I’ve been spending a lot of time in France lately, and no, it’s not for the reasons you might think. With most of my travel routes currently spanning North America, the Middle East, and Africa, I’ve learned to break up my journeys to make the most of both the experience and my budget.

Earlier this year, I spent part of my sabbatical in France, but I only stayed in Paris and didn’t get the chance to explore other regions. While I absolutely love France, I’ve realized I need to limit my visits, there’s something about being there that makes me lose track of time (and money) when shopping, which isn’t exactly sustainable longterm.

By October, I knew I’d be celebrating the holidays solo and wanted to get ahead of the seasonal chaos. After spending Christmas stuck in an airport during the snowstorm of 2022, with endless cancellations, I began approaching holiday travel differently. In 2023, I started a new tradition, using the holidays to reflect and unwind. It turned out to be just what I needed, and it’s a tradition I plan to keep.

On this trip, I began in Paris to pick up a package before heading to Nice. My plan was to stay in Nice and explore the Côte d’Azur from there. The cities on my list were Nice, Monaco, Antibes, Èze, and Cannes in no particular order.

Up until now, I had never been to the South of France, which meant my problem solving skills had to be on steroids, this time, entirely in French. I was relieved (and a little proud) that my French had improved enough for me to get by. Otherwise, I have a feeling navigating the South might have been a bit more challenging.

When I arrived at the airport, things didn’t quite go as planned. I was expecting to grab the usual €2 bus or train ticket to get to my hotel, but instead, the only option available was a day or three-day pass to explore the Côte d’Azur, for about €35. This meant that if I bought it, I’d have to start sightseeing immediately to justify the price. The only problem was that I was exhausted from the flight, jet lagged, and hadn’t slept properly the night before. Still, I decided to make the best of it, after all, I’d already committed to the three-day pass.

Once I arrived at my hotel, I had a quick chat with the guest relations staff. One thing I always make a point to do, even with a full itinerary, is to check with locals for better recommendations. Sure enough, she pulled out a huge map and gave me tips on how to make the most of my time in Nice. I had plans to visit Roquebrune-Cap-Martin the next day, having already booked lunch at a hotel there. But when I checked Google Maps, I couldn’t find a direct route, only options to get as far as Monaco. Unfortunately, the staff member wasn’t sure how to get there either. The only alternative seemed to be a taxi, which meant I wouldn’t get to use the pass I had just purchased. I told myself I’d figure something out, hopefully after some rest, my brain would be more up for the challenge.

To my surprise, she handed me the key to a suite. Apparently, I’d been upgraded because of the number of nights I was staying. As if that wasn’t exciting enough, a bottle of champagne awaited me in the room as part of the hotel's seasonal celebrations. Suddenly, the fatigue faded, and I felt re-energized. I took a quick shower, napped for two hours, and woke up ready to explore Nice for the rest of the day.

Nice 

I headed out to Place Masséna, one of Nice’s most iconic landmarks. To my surprise, it was beautifully lit and fully decorated for Christmas, which added a magical touch to the evening. A Christmas market filled the square, making the experience feel even more special. After taking in the festive atmosphere and doing a bit of sightseeing, I made my way to Cours Saleya, a market by day that transforms into a lively restaurant hub at night once the vendors pack up.

My plan was to watch the market wind down and witness the seamless shift as restaurants began to take over the space. I stayed until the transition was complete and eventually chose one of the restaurants for dinner. I ordered a seafood linguine, which came with giant prawns. While the dish was good, it didn’t quite measure up to the duck I’d had at L'Aubrac in Paris the day prior. Still, I knew I’d have better luck with food the following day.

After dinner, I strolled around for a little while, enjoying the cool night air of the city. Eventually, I decided to head back to the hotel and call it a night, resting up for the adventures that awaited me the next day.

Roquebrune-Cap-Martin

I hadn't figured out how to get to the hotel yet. My reservation was for 1:00 PM, so I decided to leave three hours early to stay ahead of any potential delays. I thought once I arrived in Monaco, I could navigate my way to the hotel. I took the Ventimiglia train heading to Monaco, but upon arrival, no one could point me to the exact bus I needed. At that point, I felt I'd exhausted my options and opted for Uber. To my surprise, there were no cars available.

"How is this possible?" I wondered. I asked a local, who explained that Uber operates more efficiently on the French side, and getting one in Monaco can be difficult and expensive. This was my first realization of the distinct separation between Monaco and France. While I was aware that Monaco is a sovereign city state with its own government, I hadn't expected such a stark difference, especially since it's still part of the French Riviera.

I asked the next logical question: "Where is the French side?" The local pointed in the direction, but it felt like quite a hike. I was exhausted but determined to reach the restaurant. I reminded myself that once I arrived, none of this would matter. Eventually, I managed to get an Uber and arrived 30 minutes early, giving me the chance to take in some sightseeing and enjoy the phenomenal views before lunch.

I had been eagerly anticipating this meal since planning my visit to the South of France. I indulged in a three-course meal complemented by a nice bottle of wine. The atmosphere was warm, and the service was exceptional, unlike anything I'd experienced recently. The crowd was older but lively, and the hospitality was impeccable. I never had to call for service; everything was handled seamlessly.

Later, I visited another bar at the hotel, where I enjoyed an old fashioned. My olives and nuts were never left empty, the staff kept refilling them without hovering for a tip. It felt refreshing. When I have more time, I plan to stay at the hotel for three days just to fully enjoy the services and facilities. 10/10 experience.

I spent the entire day there. When I was ready to leave, I ordered an Uber to the most convenient station. Luckily, I now knew the route, and the commute was smooth. My Uber driver was quite chatty and even joked that he thought I was a fashion model. He mentioned that he rarely takes time off, and we agreed that when he does, I'll pursue my modeling career.

It was the perfect way to end the day.

Eze and Monaco

I was determined to make the most of my 35 euro, 3-day pass. The next day, I set off for Eze, a village recommended to me for its fairytale like beauty, think reminiscent of a Disney movie. However, no one mentioned the hike required to reach it. I had imagined stepping off at the station and immediately embarking on my adventure.

To my surprise, when I arrived at the stop, there was nothing in sight. I glanced to the right and saw a hill. Spotting a few others heading in that direction, I asked someone where the village was. They casually informed me we had to hike to reach it. Perhaps something got lost in translation because they made it sound easy and didn't specify the length of the hike, a blessing in disguise, as I might have reconsidered had I known. I was dressed in leather pants, a turtleneck top, and luckily, flat boots.

I began the hike, assuming it would take no more than 10 minutes to reach my Disney like discovery. I was wrong. The hike took two hours. Despite the uncertainty, I resisted the urge to check the time, unsure whether to attribute this to my familiarity with delayed gratification or my desire for surprise. I took breaks along the way, enjoying the quiet viewpoints. At times, I felt completely alone, until occasional hikers passed by. After 20 minutes, I started sweating despite the cold weather, loosening my trousers and allowing some air into my turtleneck. My hair was already in a bun, which spared me further discomfort. I used the solitude to reflect on life, occasionally speaking my thoughts aloud. I loved having that moment to myself.

By noon, I reached another viewpoint, where I stumbled upon a poem by Nietzsche referencing the noon hour. Coincidentally, it was noon. In my usual fashion, I searched for meaning in the words, meditated briefly, and pressed on. The takeaway from the poem was "if, man is a bridge for a man his super humanity is found in his friendships"

When I finally arrived in Eze, it was the most beautiful surprise I'd encountered. I had intended to stop for tea before exploring but was too excited to waste any time sitting. I wandered through the alleys, admiring the cobblestones and colors. By chance, my outfit blended perfectly with the surroundings. It felt as though the universe had aligned everything for that moment. I explored the village twice to savor every detail. By the end, I felt fulfilled, as though I'd done something extraordinary.

At around 3 PM, hunger set in. Eze had few restaurants, and I suspected they might be tourist traps. I opted for a glass of wine and water but refrained from eating, determined to avoid another disappointing food experience.  I decided to wait until I reached Monte Carlo.

While I was sipping my wine, I researched the hike and found out the hike from the Eze-sur-Mer train  station to Eze Village is approximately 2 hours and the distance is around 4 kilometers  with a significant uphill climb. The trail is known as the Nietzsche Path. What an incredible challenge I dared to embrace.